The Germans have a phrase “zeitzeuge”, which broadly signifies that historical past has an enduring maintain on the current. Zeitzeuge comes alive in Berlin, the place markers of the previous, be it preserved components of the Iron Curtain or residences constructed within the Soviet type, are ever current.

I visited Berlin for 2 days in September, two months earlier than the 30th anniversary of the autumn of the wall on Nov 9, with Berlin planning to host a week-long celebration to mark the historic occasion.

Vacationer footfall to Berlin has elevated, with arrivals between January and August this yr going up 3.2 per cent to 9.18 million from 8.9 million over the identical interval final yr.

It was largely sunny after I was in Berlin, with temperatures averaging between 11 and 19 deg C.

My first cease was Checkpoint Charlie, the previous crossing level between Soviet East Berlin and capitalistic West Berlin throughout the Chilly Warfare.

Distributors promote items of rubble and different souvenirs comparable to mock-ups of the entrance pages of newspapers world wide the day after the wall fell, although the authenticity of the stones stays suspect.

The ground can be marked to indicate the place the wall was so vacationers might hint the road that when divided East and West Berlin.


  • I flew into Frankfurt on a Lufthansa flight and took a connecting flight to Hamburg. The full journey time, which included the transit, was about 15 hours.

    I took a two-hour prepare trip from Hamburg to Berlin.

    I ended my journey within the German capital by flying out to Munich earlier than catching a connecting flight to Singapore. The full journey time was about 15 hours.

    I flew Lufthansa for each flights.



    • Go to Checkpoint Charlie within the morning and keep away from it within the afternoon. Vacationers are likely to crowd across the junction the place Checkpoint Charlie is correct earlier than lunch and in addition within the afternoon, inflicting visitors to decelerate.

    • Be careful for cyclists. Roads are divided into bike owner and pedestrian lanes and it is not uncommon to wander right into a bike owner’s path when making an attempt to take pictures. Cyclists anticipate you to provide means and should not cease or decelerate after they ring their bells.

    • Uber is the Berliners’ selection of transport once they wish to get someplace far shortly. Uber in Berlin affords a inexperienced choice referred to as UberGreen , the place you’ll be able to e-book electric-powered automobiles.


    • One of the best time to go to Hamburg is between the months of Might and September, when the climate is hotter. However take an umbrella anyway as a result of Hamburg has an oceanic local weather, which signifies that it will possibly rain all yr spherical. It rained for 2 out of three days throughout my go to.

    • Carry money. Most eating places in Hamburg settle for worldwide bank cards, however there would be the occasional snack or trinket you wish to strive or purchase. The bakery I visited in Sternschanze didn’t settle for any type of card cost.

    Automated teller machines usually are not widespread in Hamburg they usually could cost excessive withdrawal and trade charges.

The information I used to be with prompt going to Checkpoint Charlie within the morning to keep away from the crowds, which turned out to be a good suggestion.

One other {popular} spot to see remnants of the Berlin Wall is the East Aspect Gallery, the place a remaining 1.3km stretch of the wall snakes alongside the River Spree.

The concrete wall, which has a peak of three.6m and used to span about 155km – thrice the size of mainland Singapore – was inbuilt 1961 to cease residents in East Berlin from looking for refuge in West Berlin.

Now, what stays of the wall has been adorned with murals, together with the considered one of Soviet chief Leonid Brezhnev kissing East German president Erich Honecker, which is modelled after a 1979 image of the 2 males embracing.

The homoerotic mural attracted crowds of excited vacationers queueing informally to take a photograph with it. It was probably the most {popular} mural the afternoon I used to be there.

I had a greater time visiting Berlin on this journey in contrast with my first time in December 2016. The climate had an enormous half to play.

I do not forget that go to to be a chilly and dreary one. The variety of vacationers was far fewer then, which made photo-taking way more nice. I might snap and go.

However winter lined the historic metropolis with greyness and accentuated its shadows, intensifying its burden of historical past. Images turned out darkish and gloomy.

I spent my days on the earlier go to exploring museums, which was how I ended up on the DDR Museum studying about life within the former East Germany. The museum is known as after the Deutsche Demokratische Republik or German Democratic Social gathering.

I keep in mind stepping out of the museum as billowy clouds loomed over the Berlin Cathedral, which sat on the sting of the Museum Island. Lengthy shadows had been forged on the inexperienced and white facade of the spectacular constructing. A heaviness hung within the air and the gloomy streets felt emptier and colder.

However this time spherical, the climate was higher and I used to be extra motivated to discover the town. I felt a way of solidarity with the various vacationers round and felt as if we had been all on a mission to grasp Berlin higher.

My favorite a part of this journey was visiting totally different neighbourhoods in Berlin, from {popular} vacationer spots to residential estates. I used to be curious to see if the autumn of the wall had any impact on how the neighbourhoods have developed.

A information and I first went to Marzahn-Hellersdorf, a workingclass residential space that’s off the vacationer path, earlier than visiting the impossibly hip Friedrichshain and prosperous Schoneberg.

My good friend Carla Hudstedt, an training guide primarily based in Berlin, describes the buildings in Marzahn-Hellersdorf as blockish, explaining that the newer additions, which seemed to be constructed prior to now decade – after communist rule – had been modelled after these constructed by the Soviets to accommodate numerous residents.

I used to be struck by deja vu when the information drove into Marzahn-Hellersdorf, a 20-minute trip from the Berlin Cathedral.

{Looking} on the buildings, I assumed I could possibly be in HDB estates comparable to Tampines, Chua Chu Kang or Toa Payoh, with solely the German carplates and occasional Russian grocery store reminding me I used to be not.

At Friedrichshain, one other neighbourhood within the former East Germany, however one that’s nearer to the town centre, there are hipster cafes, burger joints and Thai and Japanese eating places.

I had espresso and a cheesecake at Stilbruch Kaffee, proper by the Boxhagener Platz, which serves an assortment of truffles and muffins. Patrons round me had been having muesli and pancakes for brunch.

The occasional arty Berliner – dressed head to toe in black – took purposeful strides previous the window I used to be staring out of.

Trailers stuffed with furnishings on the market, a climbing fitness center referred to as Der Kegel and a skate park populate the Boxhagener Platz, the guts of the neighbourhood and {popular} with residents and vacationers alike.

Health fanatics had been sweating it out at gyms within the plaza whereas teams of vacationers took turns to pose with the graffiti and posters surrounding the plaza, bearing slogans comparable to “Berlin, Not For Sale” and “Reclaim Your Metropolis”.

The distinction between these two former East Berlin neighbourhoods with Schoneberg, a former West Berlin neighbourhood near the town centre, was most stark after I visited the latter later.

I felt like I used to be in Paris, {looking} on the decrease flooring of the Haussmann buildings the place balconies had been segregated and had ornamental motifs.

The information mentioned: “This is among the richest neighbourhoods in Berlin.” I used to be not shocked.

Yoga studios, cocktail bars and stylish fine-dining eating places serving Italian, German and the occasional Turkish meals dotted the sidewalks on the primary ranges of residential buildings.

On increased flooring, well-tended flowers peeked out of the balconies.

The three neighbourhoods I visited every informed a definite story of its previous, I assumed.

Marzahn-Hellersdorf felt prefer it had gone via urbanisation the best way Singapore did.

Soviet leaders needed to construct residential buildings in a rush to settle folks into properties, so the buildings grew to become extra about perform. Design seems to be an afterthought, in contrast to the buildings I noticed in Schoneberg.

The folks I requested for instructions from in Schoneberg felt hotter and responded in English. In distinction, passers-by in Marzahn- Hellersdorf ignored me after I requested for instructions. They mentioned they spoke no English after I requested them about their neighbourhood.

Carla had warned me that residents in Marzahn-Hellersdorf are often immigrants from Japanese Europe or Asia, so they could not communicate English. It occurred to me then that the wall might need fallen 30 years in the past, however some divides persist till {today}.

However not all East Berlin neighbourhoods are unfriendly to vacationers – Friedrichshain actually was not. Its vibe was nearer to that of Schoneberg than that of Marzahn- Hellersdorf.

Carla informed me: “Friedrichshain’s proximity to the town centre meant it developed fairly shortly when Berlin obtained busier. Staff needed to remain near the town.”

Friedrichshain was an even bigger and cooler Tiong Bahru, I assumed.

The neighbourhoods’ growth, which appears to be decided by their historical past and proximity to the town centre, was fascinating.

I’d by no means totally perceive what zeitzeuge means, however I hope understanding the historical past of various neighbourhoods in Berlin brings me a bit nearer.

• The author’s journey was hosted by Frasers Hospitality Group.

Supply hyperlink

(Visited 1 times, 1 visits today)